Highlights 2 weeks road trip through Western Australia - The South-West Loop

At the beginning of April, I went on a two-week road trip through the south-west of Australia. Along the coast from Perth to Esperance and back. Here you can find my exact route and the spots we visited along the way.

Australia will always have a place in my heart, as this is where my passion for road trips began over 10 years ago! If you need more tips on apps, car choice or costs, check out my other posts or get in touch with me via Instagram.

Western Australia can get pretty hot, especially in the summer months, so I would recommend planning your trip between March and November. Depending on where you are, you'll have warm days, but cooler nights where you can take a deep breath after a long journey. So, now to the exact route:

DAY 1 + 2 Start in Perth

Unless you are travelling through Australia by car, Perth will be your destination of choice in Western Australia. Here you have the chance to pick up your hire car, go on various errands or enjoy the benefits of a big city. In any case, you should plan a day trip to Rottnest Island. There you can meet Australia's happiest animal. The quokkas! And just like the animal, you'll probably walk across the island with a big smile on your face, because here you'll get a taste of what awaits you over the next two weeks. Crystal blue water and white sandy beaches straight out of a picture book. The best way to explore the island is to hire a bike for a few hours. You'll be flexible enough and still see a lot!

Book your bike tour on Rottnest Island here.

Accomodation in Perth

You really do have a huge choice here and will find something in every price range. Accommodation prices in Western Australia are usually a little more expensive than on the east coast. I booked a bed in the G Hostel for my time in Perth. Definitely not the cheapest option, but it was worth every cent. For me, it was also one of the nicest hostels I've stayed in in the whole of Australia! We slept in tents for the rest of our road trip. This was not only cheaper, but also logistically easier. Along the route, there are only hostels in the larger cities and if you can find accommodation, they are usually very expensive.

DAY 3 Perth to Busselton

Your day starts with a 3-hour drive towards Busselton, a small vibrant town right on Geographe Bay. Here you will find small boutiques, plenty of places to eat and the Busselton Jetty. A 1.8km long jetty that leads right into the sea. You can either walk along it or take the electric locomotive to the Underwater Observatory. Incidentally, this is one of eight worldwide. In addition to various underwater sculptures, you can see the biodiversity of the coast in one go.

We then headed to the lighthouse at Cape Naturaliste. For a small fee, you can access a viewing platform from which you can take some great photos. At the right time of year, you can even see whales here!

WHERE TO STAY?

We chose the Martins Tank Campground for our first night in a tent. I can absolutely recommend it. For 15 $AUS you get clean toilets, an allocated camping spot and a huge area for cooking. The individual pitches are without electricity, but with running water. Remember to book the campsite in advance as it is really far out. Also, a little tip on the side, leave your food in the car. Otherwise bandicoots and possums will storm your camp at night and make a huge mess.

Alternatives directly in Busselton include the Busselton Backpackers hostel or a glamping option at Busselton Villas & Caravan Park.

DAY 4 + 5 Magret River Region

There is a lot to discover in the area around Magret River. Either you prefer to relax and decide on some vitamin D on the beach or you start your day with some action with a morning surf lesson. There really is something for everyone here. It also hosts the annual Magret River Pro, where Australia's best surfers show off their skills at the end of April.

GO SURFING

Magret River is extremely well known among surfers. Beginner locations are Boranup Beach or Redgate Beach, where you can also hire boards for little money. Spots such as North Point or Prevelly Beach are almost perfect for advanced surfers. If you want to learn a bit more, you can find a two-hour surf lesson for $AUS 62, either in a group or as a private session.

TAKE A TRIP TO HAMELIN BAY

Hamelin Bay is probably one of the coolest places on your way along the west coast. Here you can experience stingrays up close all day long. If you don't dare go into the sea, that's no problem at all. The water is crystal clear and you can easily marvel at them from the shore. Don't worry, the rays are used to humans and are almost tame, just make sure you don't step on them.

A little tip: come as early as you can, the spot is very popular and the car park is already packed at midday.

SMITH BEACH IN YALLINGUP

The Injidup Lagoon is the perfect little excursion to cool off on a hot summer's day. If you have snorkelling gear with you, make sure you bring it. Watching the sun go down in the sea never gets boring. I have the feeling that the colours are even more extreme in Australia. Grab some drinks + snacks and head to Smith Beach in Yallingup and enjoy the last rays of sunshine with a 10/10 view! This will also be one of the last chances for a sunset in the ocean.

Trip to Leeuwin

If you're already in the area, you can also take a trip to Cape Leeuwin. The drive there isn't too long, but you'll find great beaches and rock formations along the way. Remember, this is a "dead end", you have to drive all the way back from here.

For me, the perfect day usually starts with a good coffee, East Augusta is a rather quiet village, which is why we were all the happier to have found Augusta Bakery. Take your time and sit in the back of the annex, the view here is great and you get an idea of the small Australian coastal town.

From here we continue along the road to the lighthouse in Leeuwin. As we had already seen a lighthouse on this tour, we decided not to visit it and just did the walk around the lighthouse. The scenery is great and if you have $AUS 21 to spare for the tour, it's certainly worth it. I'll link you to the information about the prices here. I actually wanted to fly my drone at the lighthouse, but this is strictly forbidden. Maybe this will help some people and save some petrol costs.

WHERE TO STAY?

There are two campsites in Yallingup. Both are part of the Tasman Holiday Park's chain, which you'll find all along the west coast. The site closer to the sea offers the perfect location to watch the sunset on the beach. You can reach it from here within 5 minutes. Be sure to stop by the bakery and the local general store. There are all sorts of bits and bobs and a few cool surfer souvenirs such as stickers, hats, shirts etc. here. I would have loved to take everything with me.

Tip: We had a few problems booking campsites at short notice. As we were travelling in the high season and the Australian holidays fell in the same period, almost everything was fully booked. So if you know where you want to go, book a pitch in advance by phone.

DAY 6 - Along the R 10

It's time to leave the Magret River region behind you. We continue along Route 10, where you will notice that the driving times are slowly getting longer. 1.5 hours after setting off, we made our first stop.

Greater Beedleup National Park

First of all, I have to say that this park wasn't necessarily on my to-do list. However, on a proper road trip, it's still the most fun to just stop wherever you happen to pass by and what could be better than Beedleup NP? If you translate it from the local Aboriginal dialect, it means something like "place to relax". Perfect for a stopover.

The park is home to the Karri trees, which can grow up to 90 metres tall. In the shade of the treetops, along the massive red trunks, you feel tiny. It's hard to believe that some of these giants are several hundred years old. You will also find the park's own waterfall here. The Beedleup Falls are lovely to look at and you can combine them with a short walk through the forest. I found them rather difficult to photograph, as there wasn't necessarily much water around at the time. Remember to buy a suitable car park ticket. Even if it's tempting not to do so, the ranger regularly checks the area and we only just managed to get away without a fine.

Warren National Park

If you continue along the R10, you will reach Warren National Park. The 3000-hectare area is perfect for bushwalks, camping trips or just relaxing. The landscape is very reminiscent of Beedle Up Park, but offers a little more action. If you want to get up high, for example, you can take a closer look at the Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree. Unfortunately, it was closed when we were there, but you should be able to climb it and enjoy the view. Incidentally, these trees used to be recognised as fire lookouts, which is no wonder given their height. The area also offers an 85km scenic drive by car. If you see signs that say Karri Forest Explorer, simply follow the corresponding loop. This is a great way to see other attractions in the area and you can just drift along. There is hardly any reception here, so no chance for Google Maps + Co.

Pemberton

In the heart of the Karri forests lies the timber town of Pemberton. Here, you can also climb various trees, including the tallest in the world. At 61 metres high, the Gloucester Tree is roughly equivalent to the Sydney Opera House. If that's your thing, why not take a look at Arial Adventures Pemberton? Here you can zip line through the tops of the trees and get your adrenaline pumping. As we camped very close to Big Brook Dam, it turned out to be the perfect breakfast spot. If you like swimming in the morning, this is the place for you.

WHERE TO STAY?

Once again, there are several options for overnight stays. As we wanted to sleep as far away as possible, we luckily found the Big Brook Arboretum Campground. For 15 $AUS/night/person you get a place for your tent + car. You sleep in the middle of nature, which means spiders and wildlife included. I'm still not sure whether I saw the most poisonous spider in Australia here. What I am pretty sure of is that you will see trusting kookaburras, one even came right up to the entrance of my tent and looked curiously at what I was doing there. Our neighbours were even able to stroke them, but I wouldn't advise it. Even though the birds are super cute, they are still wildlife.

Tip: Bring enough cash with you, there is absolutely no reception and the fee for the overnight stay is deposited in an envelope on site. Based purely on trust. Please don't take advantage of this, it would be a shame if these types of places had to be more expensive or more strictly guarded in future. Also, take your rubbish with you, everything that comes in - goes out again.

DAY 7-8 Highlight with crystal blue water in William Bay

If you haven't had enough of the karri trees yet, you'll find another place just behind Walpole that will literally let you walk through the crowns of the world. For 21 $AUS you can enjoy the view on a skywalk. You can find more information here.

Next Stop Denmark

Denmark in Australia? You heard right. This is a small picturesque village located on one of the most beautiful bays in Western Australia. Before you reach it, however, I highly recommend you make a stop at the Green Pools and the Elephant Rocks. If you take a closer look, you will recognise a group of elephants at the latter, hence the name. I have also rarely seen water as crystal clear as here. If the water temperature is not too fresh for you, be sure to pack your swimming gear. It's worth it! I mean, take a look at my pictures from here! If you're lucky, you might even see stingrays in the water. For a short coffee break, pop into Ravens Cafe.

Albany - History By The Sea

The journey from Denmark to Albany is not far. After around 50 minutes you reach the last major town before Esperance. Well, historical village is more like it. But don't underestimate the time, there's plenty to see here too. For example, The Gap in Torndirrup National Park, an approximately 30 metre high viewing platform that vibrates with every breaking wave. From here you have a great view of the ocean and in the winter months you can even watch whales from here. Then it's on to Frenchman Bay. If you are interested in the history of whaling, I can only recommend a visit to the former whaling station. In addition to a blue whale skeleton, you can also marvel at one of the best-preserved whaling boats in Australia. For all hiking enthusiasts: head to the Bald Head Walking Trail. Unfortunately, it was closed when we visited, but if I can trust the pictures online, it is absolutely worth the effort. I'll link you to the car park here, maybe you'll have better luck than we did.

Hidden Gem Little Beach

We discovered another highlight of our trip shortly after Albany. Drive along Two Peoples Bay Road to Little Beach. An absolute dream beach off the beaten track. I mean, you won't meet many people anyway, but this place is still an absolute hidden gem. But be careful where you step. Unfortunately, we found a few bluebottle jellyfish on the beach, which can be quite stinging if you touch them barefoot. In general, you should always keep an eye out for them on Australia's beaches. The annoying jellyfish usually come in batches and if you see one, there are often more to be found.

WHERE TO STAY?

After our visit to Albany, we decided to drive another 100 kilometres. We weren't too tired yet and we had a long journey ahead of us for the next few days. By accident we found the Cape Rich Campground. An absolute jewel among the campsites, as it is located right by the sea and really far away from tourism. An approximately 20km long gravel road leads you here and takes you to the promised nothingness. There is no reception here either, but instead a wonderful campsite with toilets, barbecues and a beautiful beach. We paid 15 $AUS/night for our pitch here, which was absolutely justified. We were also almost alone here in high season.

Tip: The sunrise on the beach is beautiful and, with a bit of luck, the entire coast is lit up in orange.

DAY 9-12 Heading to Esperance, end of the South-West Loop

Today we reach the turning point of this road trip, the town of Esperance. I can only recommend that you plan a few days for this. The town is surrounded by glorious sandy beaches and turquoise waters, and you'll also find one of the most beautiful beaches in the world here.

Great Ocean Drive

West of Esperance you will find the famous Great Ocean Drive. Along Twilight Beach Road, you will drive an approximately 32 km long loop parallel to the Indian Ocean. You can't get lost here because there is only one road. During the drive, you will pass beaches such as Blue Heaven, Fourth Beach and Twilight Beach, each one more beautiful than the last. The area is also known for its regular great white shark sightings, which of course doesn't stop the locals from kitesurfing here. Fourth Beach in particular is known for its winds and surfers. You can watch them wonderfully from the veranda at the entrance to the beach! Make sure you also stop at Observatory Point. The view here is absolutely brilliant and the chance of seeing dolphins or whales is extremely high. If you still haven't had enough of the beaches here, you can also walk down to both beaches. Just look for the wooden steps that will take you directly there. As soon as you reach 10 Mile Lagoon, slowly leave the coast behind you and head towards Pink Lake. Contrary to its name, the pink lake is no longer as pink as it once was. A lower salt concentration and changing mineral content contribute to this. Nevertheless, the region is suitable for short bushwalks or, if you like, bird watching. The biodiversity in Australia is simply amazing!

Another highlight Cape Le Grande + Lucky Bay

Esperance is also known as the gateway to Cape Le Grande National Park. Travellers from all over the world come here just to see the highlight of south-west Australia, Lucky Bay. The beach is known for its pearly white sand and the kangaroos that live there. They often come out of the dunes behind it to sunbathe on the beach or catch a snack or two from the tourists. There are signs on the beach advising you not to do this, so please keep to them.

In addition, Lucky Bay is one of the beaches that can be accessed by car. This means that breakfast on the beach is no problem at all! The sand is actually quite hard, so you don't have to worry about getting stuck there. We have also seen cars without 4x4s here, even if there are more signs advising against it, just test the beach on foot beforehand and then decide.

As a sunrise spot, you should make a note of the short hike to Frenchmans Peak. Here you have a breathtaking view over the entire park and the various bays. We also recommend a stop at Hellfire Bay, which in my opinion can definitely compete with Lucky Bay Beach.

Stonehenge in Australia?

You will actually find an exact replica of the Stonehenge monument in Salisbury, England, in the centre of Esperance. The difference is that here you can walk through the stones not just at the turn of summer, but at any time of year. The 2,500 tonne stones are aligned exactly with the sun and can be visited for a small fee. You can find all further information here.

WHERE TO STAY?

Fortunately, we visited a friend here during our time and were able to stay with him. Nevertheless, I have picked out two alternatives for you. One is the RAC Esperance Holiday Park. The RAC chain is not always the cheapest option, but you can still rely on the standard. The campsite is in a pretty good location and is more likely to have a pitch available than my second recommendation. This is because it is almost always fully booked and you only get a pitch here with a little luck. The campsite is located right next to the popular town of Lucky Bay, which is only a 5-minute walk away. Who wouldn't want to spend the night in the middle of a national park on one of the most beautiful beaches in the country? We took a look at the campsite and were blown away!

DAY 13 Almost outback feeling!

Today is a long day of travelling, you're heading back along the same coastal road that you drove into Esperance. Almost 385 kilometres inland to Wave Rock. And no, unfortunately you can't go surfing here for once. The 2.5 billion-year-old rock formation is perfect for your last stop before Perth, so enjoy the Australian country air for the last time before heading back to the big city. If you look at the place on the map, it doesn't seem that far into the country, but this place will give you the greatest outback feeling. There really isn't much here apart from the various places around it, such as Hayden. However, as the name suggests, the rock formation is very reminiscent of a wave. If you're lucky, it might even rain and the different colours of the rock will come out better. You pay the entrance fee at the reception of the camping park, which also includes the usage of a pool.

WHERE TO STAY?

Directly at Wave Rock you will find a campsite where you can stay for 25 $AUS/night. Here you even have running water and a kitchen at your service. The wifi wasn't the best when we were there, so be prepared to be a little isolated from the outside world.

DAY 14 Back to Perth

We have made it! We've travelled 2,234 km and I'm incredibly happy that we've managed the journey without a 4x4 car. In theory, we could end this road trip here, but we're not going to. If you still have some time, I'd be happy to take you north to Shark Bay. So 2 weeks can quickly turn into 3 or even 4? Of course, you can organise this trip however you like and simply stay a little longer at your highlights. Have fun on your tour and always remember, the journey is the reward! Have fun. 🧡

Want to see more of South West Australia? Click here for my story highlight on Instagram.